This “ups and downs” column was first published in
www.cubaabsolutely.com for its January edition. Still I want to share it in
my blog.
While taking advantage of the holiday season I embarked on the
mission of eating out in new and old paladares in order to report on more ups
and downs for the food enthusiasts in Havana .
Here the results of the field research for this month.
Despite de sad zoo, the margherita pizza close to Havana, is the one at Piccolo, at Guanabo. |
The zoo at Piccolo:
This is where the best pizzas in Cuba
are made (in my opinion). It is a cute restaurant in the beach town in Guanabo
and the favorite of many families that like to stop for lunch on weekends after
a morning in Playas del Este. The pizzas are baked in a wood oven and dressed
with fresh ingredients from the vegetable garden on the premises. But as much
as the food and prices are great, the little zoo that the restaurant keeps as
entertainment for the children that visit is pretty depressing. There you will
find a huge snake inside a tiny cage, a jutia (which is kind of an opossum
mixed with a beaver) also in a small enclosure, and many caged birds. I mean,
even in the case of snakes, there are few things more depressing than a big
animal trapped in a small space.
Calle 482 #503, %
Ave 5 y 7, Guanabo, Cuba. Tel. 796-4300
The indoor area at
Tres Medallas: This is definitely not the prettiest looking paladar in Havana .
It was opened about a year ago by Olympic champion Mireya Luis and her Italian
husband. The restaurant, which is named in honor to the three gold medals that
Mireya won in Barcelona , Atlanta ,
and Athens , offers a variety of
decent Italian food (including wood baked pizzas) at decent prices. The place
has an open outdoor area and it offers an indoor space too. For the hot months
the indoor dining room provides the comfort of A.C. and a space away from the
flies; nevertheless, the area is dark, cold, with little personality and loud
music. I would highly recommend the owners hire a professional interior
decorator to bring some charm to this uninviting space.
Calle 20 # 313,
e/ Av. 3ª y 5ª. Tel: 052 645 337
Not cool to offer or demand this beautiful and endangered species at a restaurant (Photo by Thierry Caro, source Wikipedia) |
The turtle offering
at many paladares: Without naming names I would love to mention this huge
“down” in many paladares in town. Some of these restaurants are already great,
with good food and service. So, if everything is already working well, why in
the world do they have to offer endangered species in the menu? In this case I
have decided to withhold the names of the places that have offered “caguama” or
“tortuga” as a gourmet dish, but it is more than one. I know the line of legality
and illegality in Cuba
can be pretty gray, but this is not only illegal, people, it is immoral! And then,
as far as I understand it just tastes like chicken… offer chicken then!
The wait time at Mi
Jardín: This is among the oldest paladares in the city. It is a quiet and
casual place and one of the few that offer Mexican cuisine. The food is good,
they have a Pescado a la Veracruzana that can be nice and spicy, the Plato
Mexicano is a great way to sample a few dishes, and the Totopos appetizer is
really addictive. But unfortunately not all is good: prepare to wait up to 25
minutes just for the drinks to be served, another long wait for the food, and
if you care for a second drink it is not unusual that you will have to go and
look for the waiter yourself. I mean, the waiters (who are part of the family
that owns the paladar) are very nice, they are just very slow. So, if you arm
yourself with a little patiente you might enjoy this cute place.
Calle 66 No. 517 esquina a 5ta, Miramar .
Tel: 203 4627
The fresh pasta at La
Corte del Principe: This is one of the newest paladares in Havana .
It is a charming and yet unpretentious establishment with a few tables in a
covered porch and with a limited menu written in a blackboard. The place is
nice, the prices are good, service is fantastic… but what is more attractive
about this place is the homemade pastas, they are really good and they are
offered with a variety of sauces that are also very outstanding: four cheeses,
carbonara, amatriciana and pesto to name a few. Follow the recommendations of
the owner, Sergio, who will give you personalized service and a detailed
description of his Italian creations. You will want to come back. Beware than
even though it is an Italian place, pizza is not served.
Calle 9 Esq. 74,
Playa. Tel: 05 255-9091
Ivan Justo, aka Aguacate 9, has not only great food but a very cool ambiance. |
Aguacate 9,
esquina Chacón. Habana Vieja. Tel: 863 9697
Hot plate cooking at
PPs Teppanyaki: Located in the heart of Vedado this paladar opened just a
few months ago with a Japanese menu that includes a variety of sushi and, of
course, teppanyaki, the kind of Japanese cuisine that involves cooking on a hot
plate in front of the customer. The menu at PPs Teppanyaki includes a variety
of meats (shrimp, beef, and pork) prepared and presented in different
traditional styles. All of them were really good during my visit. The skillful
cooks explain every step of the cooking process and are able to make accommodations
for any particular taste and answer any question about this cuisine. Prices are
reasonable and reservations are recommended, since there are only two hot
plates with about 12 chairs each.
Calle 21 No. 104,
apto 4 e/ L y M, Vedado. Tel: 836 2530
Piña Colada at La
Casa: La Casa is one of the oldest paladares in Havana ,
and it is often missed by many in the expat community because of its location on
a very quiet street in Nuevo Vedado. The place is nice and has an interesting interior
garden. The service, supervised by owner Alejandro Robaina, is spotless and the
food is fairly good, including the Japanese menu they had on Thursdays. But one
of the high points of this restaurant is their piña coladas; they are just out
of this world. They are served in a carved pineapple and are a meal in itself
made with fresh fruit, a generous serving of rum and ice. Don’t miss having one
of these cocktails!
Calle 30 No. 865
e/ Avenida 26 y 41.Nuevo Vedado. Tel: 881 7000
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