Instructions to visit Cuba

Many of the people around me know that I spend a fair amount of time whining and complaining about Cuba. This country that has been our home for the last five years has a big amount of challenges. Nevertheless, I love it; I find it interesting, fascinating, fun, and beautiful. And if you can, you should visit it… even if you are an American.

And if you decide to come and visit there is some information that I think would be useful for the first time travelers. So, here are some instructions that I think will help you get the most out of your trip and avoid disappointments from false expectations:

1. - Do not come expecting great food. In the last two years Havana has been flooded with private restaurants thanks to the economic reforms implemented by Raul Castro that allow people to establish small business. Some of these eateries (called Paladares) are really good for Cuban standards, but in general the food offered in the island moves in a range that goes from “good” to “uneatable.” The later is found usually in the state run restaurants and hotels (avoid those).

2. - Bring you own toiletries. Thinking something like “I’ll buy the conditioner over there,” or “the hotel will have toothpaste,” may leave you without conditioner and toothpaste for the whole trip. This applies for any other toiletry: shampoo, shaving cream, hair mouse, deodorant, tampons… Don’t worry about the toilet paper, though, I have only seen it disappear from the stores once in my five year stay in here.

3. - Ignore people who call you on the streets. Believe me, you will have plenty of opportunities to talk to interesting Cubans and learn from them about this country and its culture; and believe me again, there will be many (I mean, many) Cubans that will try to initiate a conversation with you in the streets usually by asking you where are you from and then saying that they have a cousin or a friend that lives in whatever country you mention. Invariably it will go from there to tell you that they need some medicine (that they expect you to pay for), or that they now a wonderful restaurant (where you will supposed to buy them lunch), or that they can get you cheap cigars (that would be the worst counterfeit ones you can find). And then… after all that, you will really have to work hard in order to get rid of your new best friend.

4. - Stay in a casa, rather than a hotel. This is, to me, the best way to see and enjoy Cuba. The “casas particulares” are basically bed and breakfasts set in people’s houses. They are great for three main reasons: they give you the opportunity to interact with the family that owns the house and learn from there, they are usually way cheaper than a hotel (an average of 35 dollars per night), and they have way better service and food than most hotels. There are several websites that list these houses, just google “casa particular Cuba,” Also, the website www.tripadvisor.com features many of the casas with a lot of photos and reviews by previous customers, check it out.

5. - Or stay at Hotel Nacional. I mean, if you really want to stay in a hotel at least stay in one with some character, like Hotel Nacional, a historic beautiful building that overlooks the Straits of Florida. It is a really nice place. If possible stay at the 6^th floor (which is the executive service floor) where you will have the best service and best rooms in the place. And if you don’t stay there make sure to stop by for a drink in the garden terrace or for the tour of the hotel, offered everyday around 10 a.m.

6. - Admire a sunset in Malecon. This is a most. Get yourself some beer, or plastic cups and a bottle of wine and sit in the Malecon (sea walk) to admire one of the most beautiful sunsets you eyes have ever seen. Another good place to do this is at the bar El Polvorín, on the other side of the bay and down from the Morro fort, but you will need a taxi to get there (it is worth it), unlike Malecón which is at a walking distance from most of the popular places in the city.

7. - Pick your museums carefully. This is especially important if you don’t have a lot of time to spend in Havana. I have two main recommendations: unless you are a super admirer of the Cuban Revolution, avoid the Revolution Museum, which is in desperate need of a good curator and English translations, and don’t miss the Cuban art museum (behind the Revolution one), it has a really good collection of Cuban classic, modern and contemporary art.

8. - Visit Viñales and Trinidad (if you have time). Viñales could be done in a day; it is a beautiful valley with very unusual hills (called mogotes in Spanish). The town is pretty, picturesque and small, with plenty of casas to spend the night at (if you decide to do so) and some private restaurants. Trinidad (or any of the further towns) will take you at least one or two nights. It is located about 4 hours east from Havana and it is a beautiful tiny colonial town which happens to be one of the UNESCO’s World Heritage sites. If you have the time it is worth it.

9. - Do not go to Varadero. This, to me, is a real waste of time unless you are spending a huge time in Cuba. The beach is beautiful; no question about it, but the rest of the Varadero experience is not worth it. Here is how it goes: the place is covered by all inclusive resorts in all the range of prices and amenities, but food is usually bad, service is poor, and the reggaeton in the pool is loud. Only the priciest hotel (which goes for up to 430 dollars a night in the Royal Service area) provides really good service and food (sometimes), but for half of that price you can find much better in, say… Cancun.

10. – There are some places you got to visit. Among this a Cigar factory, there are tours every weekday of this very interesting places where the famous Cuban cigars are produced, the island’s most famous product; also you got to visit Ernest Hemingway’s house, also known as Finca Vigia, an beautiful property (now a museum) that where the acclaimed writer lived for years before; and another most is La Guarida, a private restaurant famous for the movie Fresa y Chocolate, it is located in a rundown but beautiful beauty in Central Havana

11. – If you are American make sure to travel legally. Even if you don’t, chances are you are not going be caught, but since I believe I should not be promoting illegal activities in my blog I am going to tell you of some of the ways that you can make it legal in case you are American. The general license to travel includes religious and academic reasons, plus journalists. So I guess that means that if you attend a conference here or if you are writing a blog, you are covered by the license. Then, you can also join some of the “people to people” groups that come from the U.S. The problem with those is that they usually have a schedule of things to do and give you little room to do what you want. If you decide to come on you own, then it is easy, catch a plane to Mexico City or Cancun (there are other destinations such as Bahamas) and then fly to Cuba.